The Story of Jinghua： Autumn in Beijing： One autumn rain and one cold, ten autumn rains need to wear cotton.

Life in Old Beijing, written by Jin Shoushen and illustrated by Li Binsheng, Beijing Publishing House, October 2016.

"One autumn rain and one cold, ten autumn rains need to wear cotton". After beginning of autumn, several autumn rains showed coolness sooner or later. Dozens of crickets and water hyacinths in the courtyard are called like a group of elegant music, which sounds really autumn to people. After a long summer’s steaming depression, people’s intestines and stomach are also short of oil. It is very interesting to take advantage of this cool autumn to eat and drink.

Drink delicious food

You can eat a lot in autumn. In autumn in Beijing, barbecues and crabs are the autumn delicacies, and then hot pot is served for the second time, connecting the winter.

roast　

Barbecue was originally a picnic outside the Great Wall, and it still maintains the original state of the footstool. Eating barbecue outside the Great Wall is not as exquisite as the city, but the meat is particularly fresh. Catch tigers, deer, roe deer, and even kill cattle and sheep, cut the meat, rack pine branches, and roast the meat with iron fork. There is no "roasting" or soy sauce, but it is only dipped in fine salt, which is fresh and tender. When barbecue was introduced into Beijing, there is no certain textual research. It came with the Qing Dynasty, which is more reliable. In the past, Beijing barbecues only ate mutton and little beef. According to legend, after the entrance of sheep (referring to Zhangjiakou), you must pass a river when you enter Beijing. When a sheep crosses this river, the meat will not smell good. This may not be reliable, but there is no doubt that mutton in other places is not as delicious as that in Beijing. When Beijing and Shanghai were first opened to traffic, Shanghai and Nanjing ate hot pot in winter, which was the slaughtered mutton brought by Beijing. As close as Tianjin, it is also based on Beijing mutton.

Roast meat is mainly roasted with iron, and pine wood is taken off the shelf, and pine cones are also burned, which is rare. Sauce is the main ingredient for barbecue, with less vinegar, Jiang Mo, cooking wine and marinated shrimp oil, plus shredded onion and coriander leaves, and mixed into a bowl. In addition, white water is stored in an empty bowl, and garlic cloves, white sugar and garlic are filled in a small dish. In the past, six wooden chopsticks were used for barbecue chopsticks. In recent years, because six wooden chopsticks are easy to hide dirt and burn the ends of chopsticks, there is a seal of Zhang Xiuzhu painted in Fujian, and "arrow bamboo" was invented as barbecue chopsticks. The so-called "arrow bamboo" is the reed, which is strong in quality and light in the outside, and is the most suitable.

The first one was the Zhengyang Building in the meat market. The order of eating barbecue: some people first wash the meat in white water (it can really wash out a lot of flesh and blood), then dip it in the seasoning, and then put it on the grill to cook it, and eat it with garlic cloves, sugar garlic or whole cucumber. There are also sauces dipped in soy sauce first, and then rinsed in water; There are also those that are dipped in seasoning and baked before being rinsed in water; There are also bowls that don’t use water at all, and they are baked only with ingredients. In fact, the first and last two methods are the most suitable. I once saw an old man eating barbecue in the "barbecue season". He didn’t want any ingredients, but only dipped in marinated shrimp oil, which was also a strange way to eat. Yang Erge, the owner of the first floor near the river, roasted it with raw mutton tripe, dipped it in white water first, roasted it until the tripe rolled, and then dipped it in soy sauce to eat it. It is really a good wine table. If the family eats barbecue without iron roasting, it can be replaced by a sand stove with pancakes, and the taste is similar.

In addition to the major mutton restaurants, Zhengyang Building is the best place for general diners to barbecue in Beijing. In fact, it is just the same as Er, and there is no special benefit. The mutton used in the barbecue restaurant is just frozen and crushed with stones. In addition, there are the "three outstanding barbecues" in Beijing: "Barbecue Bay", "Barbecue Season" and "Barbecue King". The beauty is that all three stores are small-scale, even guests with only a few cents in their pockets can go in and have a taste.

Wan Laowu, the owner of "Barbecue Wan", was originally the stall owner of a cake stall. In the days when cars were popular to sell pheasant-roasted meat, the Wan family sold roasted meat and set up a stall at the west exit of Aner Hutong. With a long history and developed business, they set up a shed to sell barbecue, and the number of roasted meat was increased from one to two. Every day, cars and horses fill the door, but the door is still in a shed state. The beauty of Wanjia barbecue lies in the special use of really good veal (barbecue Wan specializes in beef), so it is tender and delicious. Wanlaowu has a great skill. Every day, he cuts up to 100 kilograms of beef by hand, and all the money is spent on the sale. No matter how many guests, they all cut the meat by themselves, settle accounts and use the five senses together, that is, a cucumber can’t be wrong. Barbecue Wans are rarely interesting because they are located in downtown areas. Barbecue is a pleasure to visit, but it is not funny when it is located in a downtown area.

The "barbecue season" is at the northeast corner of the front of Shichahai, at the eastern end of Houhai, and under the slope of Yinding Bridge where the two seas meet. It faces the lotus pond in the back and the road in the front, but it is not a smoky street on the road of chariots and horses, so it is quiet and unusual, but it is very convenient for eating and drinking. There is a tripe stall on the left, the first floor on the right, and the backyard is the coast. Although it is hot in the summer, it is not too hot. Master Ji Zongbin cuts the meat himself, and the meat is made from cattle and sheep farms. The craft is also very good, and he makes lotus leaf porridge and bakes beef tongue cakes, which has a special charm.

The "King of Barbecue" is located around the Xiannong altar in Gao Shuang, with a stall in the field, which means climbing the mountain on a double ninth day. Although the scenery outside the city is beautiful, it is inconvenient to eat barbecue. In the past, all the old families in Beijing liked to climb the mountain in Tucheng on September 9, and some of them brought their own barbecue, which is rare in recent years.

Xiangshan Temple in Xiangshan, west of Beijing, has been selling "real pine barbecue" every autumn since it was rebuilt into Xiangshan Hotel, but it is too aristocratic for the poor to find. The red mountain pass of Qinglong Bridge in the west of Beijing is not too high, but it can look at Yuquan Mountain of Kunming Lake in the south and Qiuye in the lower part of Thrushcross Mountain in the north, which is also very bright. My brother lives here and collects pine cones every year. I have to go once or twice in autumn. I have a barbecue in the pine pagoda on the hill, step down the mountain on the moon and sit in the Haitang Garden. It’s a rare blessing.

crab　

There are many kinds of crabs, only sea crabs, purple crabs, river crabs and lantern crabs can be seen in Beijing. The crabs eaten in autumn in Beijing, so-called appreciating chrysanthemums, and even the "crab poison" in A Dream of Red Mansions all refer to river crabs. Crabs have a unique taste among aquatic animals, so they are very popular with diners. The crabs sold in Beijing are all called "Shengfang Crab" produced in shengfang town, Tianjin, but it is not always the case. JD.COM area and Majiqiao area in the south of Beijing also produce a large number of "sorghum red crabs". After the crabs arrived in Beijing, firstly, the "Maoer goods" of the first road were selected by Zhengyanglou and other big Zhuang pavilions, and secondly, they were assigned to the fish beds of Xiheyan, Dongdan Pailou and Dongxisi Pailou. When it comes to selling in the street, it is already a very small and thin last goods. The big crabs selected by big Zhuang restaurants such as Zhengyanglou were fed with sorghum rice every day, and they became fatter within a few days, so the sign of "Shengfang Dinner" was put up.

The common method of eating crabs is steaming. Because crabs are extremely cold, large pieces of ginger should be put in steaming. When eating, remove the grass from the crab’s belly, dip it in ginger vinegar and drink soju. There is no special secret way. A crab in a restaurant costs 50 cents to 60 cents, except for its hypertrophy, which means it is well served. Crab-eating furniture: hardwood hammer anvil, so as to hammer crab feet; Silver chopsticks and silver spoons are used to test whether there is crab poison; After eating, put water in a small basin and put tea leaves and chrysanthemum petals in it to wash away the fishy smell on your hands. Only this set is worth 50 cents, so how can the price of crabs be considered expensive! Crabs are divided into males and females by the tips of umbilicus. The umbilical cord is small, but it is full of purple oil and yellow fat, so anyone who buys crabs is willing to have the umbilical cord. In fact, although there is little purple oil in the shell of the pointed navel, there is a lot of yellow fat, and the feet are full. The beauty of the crab is in the meat, so why bother to focus on the umbilical cord!

Family crab, cooked with pepper and salt water, not only has a deep taste, but also is easy to carry when traveling. In the countryside, there is a way to eat crabs. Put them in an iron pot and sprinkle them with pepper and salt water, not too much. When the crabs are cooked, the taste is especially fragrant.

Restaurants often cook steamed crab meat in autumn, such as steamed dumplings and instant noodles dumplings, which are naturally delicious. There is a "seven-star crab" in Zhuang cuisine, which is made of chicken eggs and crab meat, with seven pinch of crab roe on it, and one crab shell on each lantern. When eating, the crab shell is removed, and the delicious food is presented.

In addition to eating big river crabs, there are also "lantern-shaped" crabs in Beijing that are made into "drunken crabs". That is, wash the crab and put it in an urn, sprinkle it with soju, cooking wine, pepper and salt water, and spices. Once you are drunk, take it as a wine and eat it. There is a "drunken group navel crab" for sale in Yannian South Cargo Village. The crab used is slightly larger than the "lantern" and is no longer Beijing-flavored.

chafing dish　

Hot pot in Beijing’s old home in winter is a kind of family fun and extremely enjoyable food. Hot pot used to talk about pot material and broth. There are two kinds of pot materials: pork balls (made and sold by pork "Nanshikui" box) and donkey meat. Complex and luxurious, you can add bacon and sauce meat. As for smoked chicken and smoked duck, they just join in the fun and take away the real taste. The soup is best served with mushroom, Sichuan winter vegetables, sheep tail oil and onion ginger.

In addition to assorted hot pot, three fresh hot pot and white meat hot pot, mutton hot pot is the most common and delicious. In a mutton restaurant or a restaurant that sells hot pot, the mutton slices are frozen in the refrigerator, pressed with big stones, and then sliced to be fresh and tender. Cut the mutton slices so that the entrance won’t be clogged. Families often cut shredded silk, just asking for large pieces, which can’t be delicious when eaten in their mouths. Cut the kidney of a lamb, usually from the side. According to Big Brother Pu, the kidney of a lamb cut by the imperial court is horizontal, not only large, but also fresh and tender.

In addition to all kinds of hot pots, some people like to eat pork slices, which are also delicious. Some people also like to eat mutton oil slices, which are much more tender than mutton, and are not as greasy as imagined sheep. Some people like to cut it with coriander and rinse it in hot pot, which really has a fresh taste. Vegetables used in hot pot include pickled cabbage, frozen tofu and vermicelli. As for increasing the head of cabbage, it is the most popular food for diners in recent years. It is only twenty or thirty years old and was founded by Donglaishun.

Chrysanthemum pot is just a disguised form of "wine pot". Besides fresh fish slices, fresh chicken slices and fresh kidney slices, chrysanthemum petals are added. It is appropriate to sip soup.

Drinking tea and wine

Drinking in autumn is not only barbecue, crab and hot pot, that is, taking "drinking" as an example, it is natural to drink a cup of "Longjing tea before Ming Dynasty" and "Hangzhou Gongju tea" in order to clear away heat and relieve summer heat and wash away dust. At this time when the west wind is everywhere and the four fields are cool, between the tile house paper account and the bright windows, three or five people can talk about anecdotes all over the world, or when they talk about ghosts and foxes at night, they can get very rich by drinking some "Baihao black tea" and "the best red life".

Beijingers don’t pay attention to tea, that is, they are partial to it, but they just find some differences in tea. As for the emphasis on water, what is Huishan Spring, the water in the heart of the Yangtze River and the snow water on plum blossoms is naturally out of reach, that is, Yuquanshan Spring, the rain in the dog days and even the well water in Shanglong. Although it can be found in Beijing, few people use it, only tap water can be found to make tea. The example of tea tasting should be "making tea", and the "making tea" in Beijing is already very inferior. Like the teahouse and bathhouse, the boiler boils water and the floor listens to "poof", which is very bad. It can only be said that drinking water can quench your thirst, but it is not enough to drink tea.

There are also people in Beijing who pay attention to tea tasting. In the autumn of Bingzi, I was recuperating at Qinglong Bridge in the west of Beijing. Because of the introduction of Brother Niu, I went to an ancient temple next to Yuquan Mountain to chat. The temple owner can write and draw. Every time the sky is clear and the moonlight is crystal clear, he will have a late breakfast in the temple and sit in the ancient Panasonic for tea after dinner. The temple owner ordered the waiter to draw from the new spring of Yuquan Mountain and boil water with a white mud stove. The fuel was "pine charcoal" (not pine wood). Pine charcoal is burned by the temple owner with thick pine branches, which is slightly woody than ordinary charcoal and is specially used for boiling tea.

It is said that boiling water with pine wood in the Tea Classic is inevitably smoky, which is not as good as the existing pine charcoal, without losing the fragrance of pine wood and the smell of fireworks, and is beneficial to boiling water. This kind of view can really make up for the deficiency of the Tea Classic. The process of boiling water is the same as that recorded in Tea Classic, that is, "once boiled, it looks like a crab’s eye" (a small bubble in the center of the initial heat of water looks like a crab’s eye) and "boiled again, it looks like a pine" (the rustling wind blows the pine), and the water is cooked immediately. Yixing teapot is the most suitable tea set for tasting tea, and the temple owner uses a very small teapot with a capacity of only one bucket. The teacup is also very small, similar to a glass with one or two capacities. Tea is poured into a cup, yellow and light green, lined with white porcelain cup, ancient green cup, purple sand cup and old frock cup. It’s really antique and unforgettable.

As for the category of tea, there are as many as twenty or thirty kinds, which have surpassed the "Zhenxi West Lake Longjing" in hot summer and the "Dendrobium hushanense" shaped like honeysuckle flowers, so it is naturally not a cool autumn drink. The tea stored by the temple owner can be used for drinking in autumn, especially the ingenious "true lotus seed" and "true lotus seed". The lotus plumule mentioned in ordinary tea shops is just tea that looks like lotus plumule, but the lotus plumule drunk in the temple is the lotus plumule in the pond in front of the door and the lotus plumule in the lotus seeds. Although it is not real tea, it has another fragrant smell that is enough to wake up drunk. It can be seen that tea tasting in autumn is also very interesting.

Drinking in autumn is not exactly the same as that in summer. For example, in summer, what you drink is "Lotus White" from Renhe Hotel in Haidian, and in autumn, drinks such as "Wengtouchun", "Green Chenchen" and "Acanthopanax senticosus" are mainly used to moisturize water and warm the navel.

enjoy beautiful chrysanthemums

When it comes to chrysanthemums, there are many accidents. Generally speaking, there are differences between old and new, and the method of planting is also different from "legend" and "reality". Let’s talk about planting first, and we can tell the difference between the old and the new by planting methods.

Beijing ancient legend chrysanthemum has three ways:

(1) the original root chrysanthemum, that is, the "old oak" that the florist said.

(2) Fuqianer Chrysanthemum, that is, the new seedlings inserted by the broken flowers in the dog days.

(3) Rooted chrysanthemum, that is, chrysanthemum grafted with Artemisia root.

But the first two can’t make the flowers grow too high and bloom too big; The latter one is not appreciated by chrysanthemum growers. The old chrysanthemum, although a famous species, has no extremely high flower species. The old planting method, except for some common seeds such as "Red Gold Plate" and "Drunken Yang Fei", some of them have to be rooted, and some of them can’t be rooted, transplanted and planted, that is, delicate seedlings such as "Zhu Mo strives for glory". The flower is not very big, the color is like purple velvet, and the flower base is not very high, but it is very difficult to cultivate. According to the breeder, this flower must be pressed, which is the same as the method of pressing Yingchun and oleander, otherwise it will not survive. Some famous chrysanthemums in China, such as "Goose Feather Tube", "Silver Line Paris", "Purple Phoenix Chaoyang", "Purple Robe Jade Belt", "Jade Tiger Beard" and "Purple Tiger Beard", have been gradually eliminated in recent years due to few lovers. Small seeds such as "green peony" and "fragrant Pak Lei" can only show off ordinary people.

The new method of planting chrysanthemum, the first is to insert buds. After the flowers wither and the leaves wither in late autumn, the new buds are in full bloom under the roots. In early winter, they are cut off with extremely quick scissors, put into small pots of wet mud and put in a room suitable for cold and warm. As long as they can keep warm in the sun and the soil is not dry, the new buds can remain immortal (but they cannot grow). It will not be until around the spring equinox in February next year that the new buds can grow new roots. They will be moved to underground beds between Qingming and Grain Rain to allow them to grow. After long summer, fertilizers such as sesame sauce residue and horseshoe water will be applied less, and naturally they will grow taller gradually.

When you are underground, you should pay attention to the rain splashing mud. After the rain, you must wash the mud off the leaves immediately, otherwise the leaves will rot and become a bare chrysanthemum, which means nothing. You must never enter the tournament again. Chrysanthemums will rise in the pot after they enter the night. There are several kinds of chrysanthemum pots: chrysanthemum pots, two pots and blank pots. However, in order to cultivate good chrysanthemum seedlings, these flowerpots are not suitable, and it is necessary to use wide-sided straight-tube pots (this kind of pots must be burned regularly). After chrysanthemums are put into pots, people generally think that they should be put on the land to borrow some earth gas, but it is not the case. You should put a flowerpot under it to avoid steaming on the ground, and you should decorate it at any time, cut off the small flowers on the side, and only make the single flower grow up. When the flowers are about to bloom, they must be made of iron wire to bear the petals, and they must move with the sunlight to get the warmth and warmth. Then, when the flowers bloom, they can smile and welcome people, and the brocade plate is colorful.

The second is root grafting. There are two necessary procedures for root grafting. First, it is necessary to cultivate the original roots of the old oak, so that new buds can grow and the buds must grow. Second, to plant Artemisia annua (Artemisia annua and Artemisia annua are absolutely forbidden), pre-fetch the seeds of Artemisia annua years ago and divide them into beds. Although the cultivation method is not as laborious as planting chrysanthemum seedlings, it takes a lot of effort to get Zhou Zheng’s roots. Rooting was prepared around the summer solstice. At that time, the Artemisia root was cut off two inches above the ground, and the chrysanthemum seedlings were obliquely cut off, connected with Artemisia root and tied with Malan leaves, which was successful in one week.

Anyone who is good at grafting chrysanthemums can do it under the scorching sun without withering chrysanthemums. There are three kinds of chrysanthemums with roots, such as "single color", "collection" and "ten thousand chrysanthemums", but there is no one with one flower. "Unique color" is just a kind of chrysanthemum seedling, which has a combined head, a four-sided head, an eight-pronged head and a nine-pointed head. Each flower is the same size, and the flowers are full beyond the old oak. "Highlights" mostly use Artemisia scoparia roots, each with different colors of chrysanthemum seedlings, and the flowers with high feet are also very beautiful, but the petals of chrysanthemums must be the same, and silk petals, tube petals, long petals and short petals cannot be confused. "Wanju" has many flower heads, more than a hundred, many of the same color, and few of different colors. It is rare in flower factories and shops in the market. Every year, dozens of pots are always cultivated in Wansheng Garden (now the zoo-editor’s note), which is extremely bright and lovely.

The third is seed. Chrysanthemum does not change color when it is grafted with roots and pressed with branches, but only seeds can change. The method of planting seeds was not used in China before, but was introduced from Japan later. There are so many kinds and colors of Japanese chrysanthemums, all of which come from seeds. Planting in early spring every year, after germination, all the procedures for planting roots are the same as those for inserting buds. For example, the famous Japanese chrysanthemum species "Chiyu Lotus", "Bannv", "Tamura" and "Tanpan" all evolved from old flowers. However, it is very difficult for chrysanthemum to collect seeds. In late autumn, take a single flower with full seedlings and good form and color, expose it to the sun, put it in the glass window in winter, and move it to the hospital for an hour or two in the afternoon. After three winters, the seeds can be enriched. But a chrysanthemum can’t grow into seeds, and only 23/10 of them can grow buds! The same chrysanthemum gives birth to different new species, which is really a good way to mutate.

The fourth is the method of planting chrysanthemums. Some people borrow bees and butterflies to spread pollen, and put different kinds of chrysanthemums that are expected to be mixed in close proximity to make it spread naturally. In the past, pale pinkish purple Jiangxi Chrysanthemum (commonly known as Jiangxi wax in Beijing) was used to plant chrysanthemums in Kuixingyuan, the flowers were mixed with white seeds, and the seeds were planted in pale pinkish purple the next year, but it was very shallow. There are also artificial variation methods. A gentleman in Tsinghua University planted chrysanthemums on campus, and when the chrysanthemums opened, he used goose feathers to transfer pollen, which also achieved many effects. If the seeds are also dyed, the chrysanthemum seeds will be washed and colored with raw opium smoke soil, and the color will change next year, but only for one year, and it will still return to its original color or other colors again.

The flowerpot for chrysanthemum planting is the new earthen pot, followed by the old one. The porcelain pot can only be used when it is placed on the table, and it is absolutely forbidden to use it when planting. There is a kind of tea chrysanthemum, which is used for making tea. Those who use chrysanthemum to eat "chrysanthemum pot", although the "Songs of the South" clearly States that "the autumn chrysanthemum will fall into the English in the evening", there is inevitably a sneer at burning the piano and cooking cranes!

enjoy the sights

For fun in autumn in Beijing, Zhongshan Park and Sanhai are certainly the best places to enjoy Qiu Guang in the city. In terms of leisure, Zhongshan Park is inferior to the South China Sea, the South China Sea is inferior to the North Sea, and the North Sea is inferior to the China Sea. When it comes to being hearty and suitable for boarding, it is also the highest eye to take Xiaobaita in Qiongdao and Wuxing Pavilion in Jingshan. In fact, there are many places to visit in Beijing, some are fond of the world and some are fond of the water in the sky, which is a matter of personal opinion.

Chongjiu boarded the plane　

Ascending the mountain on the ninth day is a story that elegant people should celebrate for thousands of years, just like Shangsi’s practice. In the past, Beijing attached great importance to climbing the ninth grade, not only boarding a high place for a while, but also eating and drinking, so the suburbs were more suitable. Those who used to pay attention to wild food and drink always went to Tucheng, a suburb of northeast and west. Tucheng is the ruins of the capital of Yuan Dynasty, and the bricks were demolished by Xu Da and Hua Yunlong, who built the city, so only the adobe was left for future generations to board. Every time I walk through the old gate of Yuancheng, I always stand on the abandoned bridge and think about the song and wine romance of Guan Hanqing and Ma Zhiyuan. It’s been a dream for 700 years! The buildings inside and outside Tucheng are criss-crossing, the rabbits are flying like eagles, the crows are living in old trees, and the autumn is not only very interesting. On the Day of the Ninth Festival, it’s really a pleasure for Sanqiu to carry a barbecue box and wine bottles, and the city head drinks heavily. After drinking, I picked up the broken bricks and engraved them with the words of Yuan and Ming, and I don’t know how I feel.

Climbing the "smoke mound" is the noblest way for the old literati class in Beijing to climb the mountain. The custom of Yandun is a relic of the old bonfire. I wonder if it is? But in terms of five towns in Beijing, there are also considerable reasons. Yandun, also known as "Yandun", is close to the south of the Southern Suburb General Administration outside Yongdingmen. The brick square platform is several feet high, the base is three or four feet wide, there is a stone gate to the west of the north, and there are stone steps in the door that can be picked up. On the platform, there is the Imperial Capital. "Imperial Capital" is full of inscriptions in Han Dynasty, and the left side of the tablet is engraved with the gods of heaven, which can be seen by anyone. The smoke mound is not too high, but you can have a panoramic view of the city in the north and overlook Nanye in the south.

Forty years ago, there was another good place to climb in Beijing, which was the "Fazang Temple Tower". Fazang Temple is located at the south end of Nangangzi, Zuo ‘anmen. According to the records of Shuntian Prefecture, it is commonly known as Baita Temple, but actually it is commonly known as Fata Temple. It was originally a Mituo Temple built in Dading of the Jin Dynasty, and it was changed to Fazang Temple in the second year of Jingtai in Ming Dynasty. The temple is very grand. In the old days, there was a monument for offering wine to Hu, a monument for the ancestor of Goose Head, a tower with seven levels, ten feet high, eight windows on all sides, and a Buddha in each window, totaling 56 Buddhas. During the Double Ninth Festival, many people come here to climb high. Lantern Festival will burn around the tower, which is very popular. In the late Qing dynasty, the temple was destroyed, and only the tower could be boarded. Since the Jingfeng Railway was completed, the railway passed by the tower, and the tower window was blocked, and the tower door was built with big stones. Today, the Fazang Temple has disappeared, only the towering tower still stands in the shadow of the sunset, living a lonely life in the spring breeze and autumn moon with the Hall of Prayer far away.

Three-gate boating　

Sanzha, there is no such name. If Datong Gate is the first gate and Qingfeng Gate is the second gate, Gaobeidian Gate can be said to be the third gate. There are a lot of records about the Second Gate, but there is still a lot of anger in the drums, wine and meat. If you want to have a boat in autumn, you should take Gaobeidian as the best choice. From the second sluice gate to Gaobeidian sluice gate, the road is about ten miles long, which is longer than that between the first sluice gate and the second sluice gate. After the clarification of the river body and sluice gate of the second sluice gate, all the pollution has gradually settled, and the water color is clear, with small fish spreading their tails and big fish splashing their thorns, which is quite a water country.

Within five miles to the east of the Second Gate, the banks are steep, several to two or three feet high, and there is a reed on the south bank, which stretches to the entrance of Nanzhuang Village, Xishui, Gaobeidian, quite like a picture book of Luhua Gudu. On the north bank, in the area of the bergamot princess grave, many maple trees are born in dense and alternating places. Qiu Lai is old and red, with clear water next to it and a long view of the reed flowers, which is fascinating. Between the Mid-Autumn Festival and the Double Ninth Festival, you can wear a soap jacket (you should bring a cotton robe), and hire a boat to go back and forth in Gaobeidian at the Second Gate. The boat is covered with tents, and you can enjoy the scenery. The second gate has straw bag fish raised by the restaurant, with a tail of two or three pounds, and white vinegar. Although it has no taste, if you bring your own mushroom residue and flavor elements, you can also get a clear taste and a salty taste.

This article is selected from Life in Old Beijing and has been authorized by the publishing house. The illustrations used in this paper are all from this book except the title map, which is the stills of the movie Waiting Alone (2004).

The author accepted the application.

Illustration Li Binsheng

What is the excerpt?

Editor Qing Qingzi

Lead proofreading Liu Jun